What's the difference between Kadhua and Phekwa?
Kadhua uses hand-woven supplementary weft technique where each motif is individually created with separate threads, taking 3-6 months per saree. Phekwa uses continuous supplementary weft with some mechanical assistance, completing in 15-30 days. Kadhua shows clean reverses without floating threads, while Phekwa has visible thread floats on the back. Kadhua costs 2-3x more due to intensive labor.
Two Banarasi sarees. Same shop. Same pattern. Almost identical.
One costs ₹30,000. The other ₹80,000.
The shopkeeper says "Kadhua" and "Phekwa" like you're supposed to understand. You nod. You buy the cheaper one. Three years later, at your cousin's wedding, you finally understand why the expensive one was expensive.
The Phekwa's motifs are blurring. The Kadhua on her mother? Still crisp as day one.
The Weaver's Truth (What Shops Won't Tell)
Visit Banaras. Find a weaver, not a seller. Ask about Kadhua vs Phekwa.
He'll flip the saree over. That's your first lesson. The back tells the truth.
Kadhua's back: Clean. Each motif looks hand-stitched. No loose threads floating. Like embroidery, but woven.
Phekwa's back: Thread highways. Floats connecting motifs. Mechanical efficiency visible.
One weaver told me: "Kadhua is meditation. Phekwa is production."
The Hand vs Machine Debate
Let's be clear. Both involve handlooms. But the devil's in the details.
Kadhua process: Pure manual. Each motif individually woven. Weaver picks up specific threads by hand. Creates pattern. Cuts thread. Moves to next motif. Repeats 10,000 times.
Phekwa process: Semi-mechanical assist. Continuous weft thread runs across width. Motifs created by lifting specific warps. Thread floats between motifs on reverse. Trimmed later or left as-is.
Think of it like writing. Kadhua is calligraphy with a bamboo pen. Phekwa is cursive with a fountain pen. Both handwritten. Different intensities.
The Time Mathematics
Kadhua reality:
- Simple border: 3 months minimum
- Full jangla work: 6-8 months
- Bridal masterpiece: Up to 1 year
- Daily output: 1-2 inches
Phekwa timeline:
- Simple design: 15 days
- Heavy work: 30-45 days
- Bridal saree: 2 months maximum
- Daily output: 6-8 inches
One Kadhua saree = Six Phekwa sarees in time. The price difference suddenly makes sense.
The Visual Difference (If You Know Where to Look)
Motif clarity: Kadhua motifs are sharp. Like HD versus standard definition. Each petal defined. Each leaf distinct.
Phekwa motifs soften at edges. Still beautiful. Slightly impressionistic.
Pattern limitations: Kadhua can create any design. Literally any. Portraits, landscapes, text. I've seen a Kadhua with the entire Gayatri Mantra woven in.
Phekwa works best with repetitive patterns. Florals, paisleys, geometrics. Complex unique designs get muddy.
Color behavior: Kadhua uses individual colored threads per motif. Pure colors. No bleeding.
Phekwa's continuous thread can create color shadows. Artistic, but different.
Check our Kadhua collection to see the precision difference.
The Weight Game
Pick up both sarees. Feel the difference.
Kadhua: Lighter despite intricate work. No extra floating threads adding weight. A full jangla Kadhua weighs less than plain Phekwa sometimes.
Phekwa: Heavier. Those floating threads add up. The back carries extra weight. Drapes differently.
For summer weddings? Kadhua wins. For structure and volume? Phekwa has advantages.
The Durability Test
My grandmother's collection has both. 40 years old. Here's how they aged:
The Kadhua sarees: Motifs intact. Some color fading. Structure perfect. Could wear tomorrow.
The Phekwa sarees: Floating threads caught and pulled. Some motifs distorted. Few repairs visible. Still wearable but showing age.
Time is Kadhua's friend. Phekwa's challenge.
The Price Decoder
Kadhua pricing factors:
- Weaver skill level (master vs apprentice)
- Motif density (butis per inch)
- Thread quality (pure silver vs tested)
- Design complexity (traditional vs custom)
- Weaving family reputation
₹50,000 to ₹5,00,000 range. Yes, five lakhs. I've seen them.
Phekwa pricing factors:
- Design intricacy
- Zari percentage
- Overall weight
- Market demand
- Shop location
₹15,000 to ₹80,000 typically. Sweet spot around ₹30,000-₹40,000.
The Investment Angle
Kadhua appreciation: Vintage Kadhua from famous weavers appreciates. Like art. 20-year-old pieces selling for 3x original price. If you know what you're buying.
Phekwa stability: Holds value. Doesn't appreciate much. Good for wearing, not investing.
Think of Kadhua as blue-chip stocks. Phekwa as fixed deposits.
The Weaver Families
Only 50-60 families in Banaras still do true Kadhua. Each has signature styles.
The Ansari family's peacocks. The Hassan family's architectural patterns. The Maurya family's miniature work.
Phekwa? Hundreds of weavers. More democratic. Less exclusive.
When you buy Kadhua, you're buying a signature. Phekwa is buying a style.
How to Verify (30-Second Test)
Step 1: Flip the saree. Check the reverse.
Step 2: Look for floating threads between motifs.
Step 3: Check motif edges - sharp (Kadhua) or soft (Phekwa)?
Step 4: Feel the back - smooth (Kadhua) or textured (Phekwa)?
Step 5: Ask for weaver details. Kadhua sellers know names. Phekwa sellers might not.
The Modern Reality
New technology blurs lines. Some weavers combine techniques.
"Kadhua-style Phekwa" exists. Marketing term. Technically Phekwa. Priced between both.
Digital Kadhua? Jacquard Kadhua? Not traditional Kadhua. Different category entirely.
Be specific when shopping. "Handwoven Kadhua" vs just "Kadhua."
When to Choose What
Choose Kadhua for:
- Generational pieces
- Bridal trousseau
- Investment pieces
- Gifts to collectors
- When budget allows
Choose Phekwa for:
- Regular occasion wear
- Experimenting with styles
- Building collection
- Gifts to young people
- Budget constraints
Both are authentic Banarasi. Both are beautiful. Different purposes.
Browse our heritage collection for both Kadhua and Phekwa options.
The Emotional Difference
Kadhua carries stories. The weaver who spent six months. The pattern passed through generations. The meditation in each thread.
Phekwa carries accessibility. More people can own Banarasi dreams. Democracy in silk.
Neither is superior. Different philosophies.
The Care Difference
Kadhua care: Minimal. No floating threads to catch. Dry clean rarely. Air and fold. Survives neglect.
Phekwa care: Careful handling. Watch for snags. Regular checking for pulled threads. More dry cleaning.
Kadhua is low-maintenance luxury. Phekwa needs attention.
The Resale Reality
Kadhua resale: Strong market. Vintage pieces sought after. Good condition fetches 60-70% of current market price.
Phekwa resale: Harder sell. Many available. 30-40% value typically. Unless exceptional piece.
Consider this when investing.
Regional Variations
Banaras Kadhua: Dense, heavy motifs. Gold/silver dominance.
Bengal Kadhua: Lighter, more artistic. Color play.
Gujarat Kadhua: Geometric patterns. Different aesthetic.
Phekwa: Mainly Banaras. Some Tamil Nadu variations.
Geography matters in technique.
Ready to Make an Informed Choice?
Now you know why one costs double. The months of meditation vs weeks of weaving. The clean reverse vs floating efficiency. The investment vs accessibility.
Explore authenticated Kadhua and Phekwa at House of Banaras. Each piece clearly labeled with technique, weaver details, and time invested.
Can't decide? WhatsApp us clear photos of the reverse. We'll confirm the technique for free.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can Phekwa be converted to look like Kadhua?
A: No. The fundamental weaving technique differs. Some sellers trim floating threads to mimic Kadhua's clean back, but close inspection reveals the truth. The motif sharpness and thread behavior can't be faked.
Q: Is Kadhua always more expensive than Phekwa?
A: Usually yes, but exceptions exist. A simple Kadhua with minimal work might cost less than an intricate heavy Phekwa with premium zari. Technique is one factor; materials and density matter too.
Q: How do I identify fake Kadhua being sold as genuine?
A: Check if the seller can name the weaver family. Genuine Kadhua sellers know their weavers personally. Ask to see the saree in natural light - machine-made "Kadhua" has uniform mechanical precision. Hand-woven has tiny irregularities that prove human touch.
Q: Can the same design be made in both techniques?
A: Technically yes, but results differ. Kadhua allows more intricate details and color variations within single motifs. Phekwa better suits overall patterns and repetitive designs. Complex portraits or text only possible in true Kadhua.
Q: Which technique is better for daily wear?
A: Phekwa, honestly. It's lighter on the pocket if damaged. Kadhua is occasion wear - weddings, festivals, special events. Like driving a vintage car daily versus keeping it for Sunday drives. Both have their place.